Famous stands serving iconic Vienna sausages are in danger of being wiped out because of kebabs and hamburgers. As a result, the Austrian capital wishes to have them listed by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage to protect them.
The Vienna sausages symbolise the Viennese way of life, much like the city’s cafés, balls and the Opera House. The ballroom waltz and coffee houses are already on the UNESCO list.
However, this new eventual inclusion would pay homage to the city’s working-class side as well, argued themayor.eu.
“We’re keeping our fingers crossed that we’ll get what we want,” Patrick Tondl – one of the founders of the association that submitted the heritage application, even with the support of Vienna’s mayor Michael Ludwig – told AFP.
The owner of the city’s oldest “Würstelstand”, which opened in 1928, and some 180 other kiosks offer sausages to the city’s two million inhabitants day and night in a cardboard tray, with a slice of bread, mustard and horseradish.
However, despite the sausages being popular with customers, the number of stalls has declined over the last ten years, with over a hundred having been converted to serve pizzas, kebabs, hamburgers or Asian dishes, according to the Chamber of Commerce.
Proud to be in his fourth generation, Patrick Tondl, 36, sees these stands as places where people can “meet” and “exchange ideas”.
“Everyone is on an equal footing. A wealthy banker can come and have a chat with someone who can barely make ends meet,” he says of the increasingly rare mingling of cultures.
Echoing the same sentiment, Sebastian Hackenschmidt, author of a book of photos on the subject, noted that Austria’s UNESCO candidacy aims to reinforce this “typical” image. He emphasised the “social function” of these places with their “regular clientele”, which are more than just “takeaways”.
But their “inclusive” aspect is “a bit of a myth”, in a capital where 40 percent of the population was born abroad, he added.
The tradition of street stalls dates back to imperial times, during the Austro-Hungarian era. Back then, they moved around according to demand, setting up stalls outside factories or schools. The fixed sausage stand, however, is a relatively recent achievement – the city only allowed fixed locations in 1969.
Today, many have evolved and adapted to their customers. The traditional “Bratwurst” or “Käsekrainer” (cheese sausages) then appeared on the menu and now also serve a vegetarian version.
According to Tondl, an updated menu and, in some cases, a more modern design, have given “new impetus” to this tradition, which has also won over tourists.
“It’s what you want to eat when you come to Austria,” said Sam Bowden, a 28-year-old Australian having enjoyed what he believes to have been “probably one of the best sausages” of his life.
In fact, the stands have become a beloved institution that is frequented by late-night opera visitors as much as by shift workers during the day.
Faced with “changing habits”, the battle is also a cultural one, with the far-right stronger than ever. Predicted to win the parliamentary elections this autumn, the FPÖ party never fails to miss an opportunity to denounce standardisation under the effects of globalisation, argued lematin.ch.
“The Viennese sausage stands are inseparably linked to the heart of our city and are more than just places to sell delicious food,” said Mayor Ludwig.
“The sausage stands are part of the city’s identity and history. They are also a social hub and strengthen the community and togetherness in Vienna.”