Most Westerners are unlikely to ever visit secretive North Korea, but this year a select group of foreigners will run through the streets of its capital Pyongyang.
And Australians are likely to be among them, ignoring Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) advice against travelling there.
In April, the Pyongyang Marathon will held for the first time in five years.
North Korea briefly in late February after closing its borders early in the COVID-19 pandemic. But tour operators were reportedly told earlier this month that tours were cancelled until further notice.
However, this year’s marathon appears to still be going ahead, and Brendan Skinner is one of five Australians expected to travel there to join the race.
“I’ve always thought I would go anywhere if I had the opportunity to, including North Korea. But the thought never really went past that,” Skinner told SBS News.
“It’s so unique to do a marathon; it’s so unique to go to North Korea and now I can combine them both.”
Brendan Skinner recently rode a bicycle more than 500km from Surat Thani in Thailand to George Town in Malaysia. Source: Supplied
While he’s an avid runner, including competing in ultra-marathons, Skinner said he has only started preparing recently.
“I’m hoping prior experience will get me through — and a bit of adrenaline from the crowd,” he said.
DFAT’s Smartraveller website has a “do not travel” advisory in place for North Korea. It warns travellers about “the very different laws affecting visitors and the uncertain security situation”.
The site also includes further advice on safety, health and legal concerns, with DFAT advising that Australia does not have a consulate in North Korea meaning its ability to assist is very limited.
DFAT advises that the Swedish Embassy in Pyongyang is “the ‘protecting power’ for Australia and provides limited emergency consular services”.
Swedish authorities helped in 2019 after he was briefly detained.
‘A complex and fascinating place’
Simon Cockerell is the general manager of Koryo Tours — the only company allowed to bring foreigners into North Korea for the 6 April marathon.
He said upwards of 400 runners are set to compete, including around 200 foreigners and more than 200 North Koreans.
He said they are “a mixture of keen runners, those who have been waiting years to visit Pyongyang, people in the right place at the right time”.
“This is not a general opening [of Pyongyang],” Cockerell said. “It is a one-off opportunity under special circumstances.”
The entry fee for foreigners is US$150 ($238).
By comparison, the New York Marathon charges US$315 ($500) for non-members of the New York Road Runners Club and the London Marathon charges £146 ($300) for non-UK residents.
Runners passing the Arch of Triumph in the 2012 Pyongyang Marathon. Source: AP / Kim Kwang Hon
“North Korea is a complex and fascinating place that fascinates many people and while it is certainly not for everyone, it is very much for those who are intrigued at the experience of visiting such a country and experiencing what they can,” Cockerell said.
He said his company provides briefings for travellers before they go to North Korea.
“Being prepared is the most important thing and one shouldn’t consider going to a place like the DPRK (Democratic People’s Republic of Korea) with anyone who doesn’t take it seriously.”
People in Pyongyang waving at marathon runners. Source: AP / Wong Maye-E
Skinner said he didn’t have concerns about his upcoming trip.
“I try not to have any expectations going into anything, just kind of have an open mind and adapt to what’s happening in front of me,” he said.
While his friends are now excited for him, his family have some reservations.
‘Exhilarating and thrilling’
Jasmine Barrett’s family are less surprised at her decision, with 2025 set to be her fourth time entering the Pyongyang Marathon.
Barrett, 41, ran her first marathon while living in Beijing and chose the Pyongyang Marathon over the Beijing and Great Wall races.
“As courses go, the Pyongyang one is quite reasonable,” she said.
Barrett is a PhD student studying North Korea’s disability sector at the University of Melbourne.
Having gone on several trips to North Korea for research and humanitarian work, she said the marathon gives visitors “a whole other perspective of the city”.
“If you go to Pyongyang on a tour, you might spend more time on a bus than walking on the streets,” she said.
“You really just get a different perspective when you’re running through the streets.
“It’s sort of exhilarating and thrilling to not only run through the streets with thousands of people cheering you on, but also you finish up in the stadium and then the stadium is packed full of people as well.”
Jasmine Barrett after the 2017 Pyongyang Marathon. Source: Supplied
With her prior experience, Barrett will also be a volunteer tour leader this year.
Fellow participant Stan (not his real name) is going in with an open mind.
“I guess I’m just going to experience it and see what happens,” he said.
“I don’t really have anything in mind.”
Stan decided to do the Pyongyang Marathon after seeing an Instagram reel. Source: Supplied
As a casual runner who hasn’t even done a fun run, the 24-year-old was inspired to do the half-marathon after seeing an Instagram reel.
Stan has been running 15km a day, three to four times a week, and ran a half-marathon in training to prepare.
